Travelogue: "Giant Head"

Dec. 14 2002
by Basil

From the end of the previous tour until now, nearing the end of the current tour, we've come full circle. On the last tour we were on the Pacific coast where if you did anything too enthusiastically you'd break into a profuse sweat (it's a little warm). During most of the current tour we've been between 2000m and 3000m - even in Mexico it's a little chilly up there. I know, no sympathy from anyone who is suffering winter right now, but there's no heating here!

We had a long (like 60km long!) climb from 1800m in Valle de Bravo to a cabin at 3700m on Volcán Nevado de Toluca (snowy volcano of Toluca) during our first overcast day of the tour. Overnight, the Volcán Nevado de Toluca (snowy volcano of Toluca) because Nevado (snowy). We cycled up to 4200m where the crater is (don't worry mom and dad, it's extinct) twice, once in the clouds and once in the sun. Both times were spectacular, and I enjoyed cycling in the snow - haven't done that for a while. It's true what they say, the air IS thin up there!

Back at the cabin - it must have gotten cold overnight because we woke up to a black and white world outside the frost covered windows. Just black shadows and white frost. And if there was ever a time that we could really REALLY use a toilet seat, this was it. Porcelain can get c-c-c-COLD!

There was a giant circular fireplace in the middle of the building that kept us from being miserably cold. Thank god for down sleeping bags too!

We started this tour in Morelia, capital of Michoacan. This has to be one of my favourite states. Morelia is a glorious colonial city, and since we arrived at about 5am on the bus, we had lots of time to cycle around and enjoy it before the traffic picked up and they let us into a hotel. As in many Mexican cities, Morelia boasts several museums and murals. One mural of interest depicted all of Mexico's "goods" and "evils". "Goods" to the right and "evils" to the left (of course). There were many polical figures, revolutionaries, etc, etc, some of whom I recognized, most I didn't. If you looked closely at the top left corner you could make out the subtle nuance of a Coca-Cola ad...

Outside the cabin was the gatekeeper for the Volcano reserve (which is a national park). Have you ever seen a one legged man chopping wood with an axe? Well, now I have. It's only a handicap if you let it be. I wish I could get a picture of that, but it didn't seem appropriate.

We're now out of the mountains, well sort of, we're practically at sea level, or at least that's what the sand flies will tell you. We're still surrounded by mountains, and we still have to tackle the coastal range to make it out to the Pacific.

On the way here, if you were't paying attention you could have had quite a scare when you suddenly glanced to the right and saw the 20m high stone head of ex-president Lázaro Cárdenas by the side of the road. He's famous for expropriating petrolium interests from US investers and companies. It's all national now - except for the huge contract industry of course. He's also famous because it's a large outdoor bathroom behind his giant head. I had taken a picture of this last year, but because there was an equally massive Coca-Cola sign beside it, it didn't really look that big. Now I have a picture of it with our bikes leaning against it. "Your bikes got crushed by WHAT?!?!..."

As always, while cycling in Mexico, or anywhere really, we're constantly confronted with the whims of dogs doing their jobs. I have my tactic for avoiding any problems - you just have to be more dog than the dog. Before the dog has a chance to chase - you can always see it in their eyes - YOU chase them. Well, this can results in some hilarity, but inevitably, the dog backs off a little confused. Joel has threatened to get me shots and a dog collar if I keep it up.